EMPORIO ARMANI Vinyl coating is a clear favourite this season. The show opened with monochrome in Prince of Wales check, chevron and polka dot patterns on PVC, then moved on to suits and oversized coats. Softer floral prints and sequin embroidery on dresses and jackets followed, with an upbeat finale of fuchsia.
PRADA The way women’s political and social achievement have shaped modern society was the theme. Looks from the 60s and 70s opened with soft corduroy flares, patchwork leather, snakeskin coats, hand-knitted scarves and baker boy hats. Next came flirtatious feather hemmed cocktail dresses, playing on Prada’s fascination with female seduction.
MAX MARA Max Mara’s design team stuck to what they do best – the coat and super luxe wardrobe classics. Under the coats were ribbed knits with a velvet pencil skirt, and a turtle neck with tailored trousers. A camel cashmere cape and a teddy bear textured shearling coats stood out. Each model was head-to-toe in a single colour, from crimson, grey, camel and black.
GUCCI The Alchemist’s Garden collection took place under a perspex walkway, to create an “anti-modern laboratory”. The 120 eclectic historic looks (menswear and womenswear together in one bumper show), with rich luxe prints and embroidery, included flower prints from the Gucci archives to butterflies and 17th and 18th chinoiserie.
NO.21 Alessandro Dell’Acqua chose Italian fashion muse and Oscar winner Anna Magnani as his inspiration. Opening with a show-stopping chiffon red dress, a herringbone suit followed. Coats and skirts were dusted with studs and crystals and, in a nod to Americana, jackets were ribbed with baseball trims. Silk midi-length tea dresses and elastic bow belts brought glamour.
FENDI Exquisite soufflé light dresses and skilfully cut boxy tailoring showcased Fendi’s trademark craftsmanship. There was oversized herringbone over Prince of Wales checks and A-line skirt and trouser suits edged in hand-stitched red leather piping. Every look was finished with knee high red boots.
VERSACE There was a distinctly street wear feel to Versace, notably in the cropped puffer jackets and slogan tops and beanie hats - except there were no jogging pants or trainers, instead a midi-length skirt with an thigh revealing split and killer heels completed the look. The signature Versace cocktail dress appeared in metallic chain mail, embroidered tulle and crystal encrusted tulle.
ROBERTO CAVALLI This was a collection of two halves: white and black, the former shown against a wall of fragrant white roses – very Kim Kardashian – and the latter against red. Up close the collection was a masterclass in artisanal techniques, such as plisse, beaded embroidery, and appliqué.
MOSCHINO Jeremy Scott took his usual tongue-in-cheek look at being wrapped up in fashion by making clothes that looked like the cardboard packaging and bubble wrap your online shopping orders arrive in, with “fragile” and “this way up” prints. Bin-bag evening gowns and a Moschino carrier bag reimagined as a skirt suit followed.
BOTTEGA VENTA The coat has got a lot of airtime in Milan. Double faced cashmere coats and jackets were free from adornment and dominated the show at Bottega Veneta. Plain and colour-block versions, in tangerine, terracotta to camel and mustard. Creative director Tomas Maier created defined sharp silhouettes, with a strong shoulder that emphasised the waist and rounded hips. Knits had exaggerated shoulders and double breasted tailoring was teamed with a jodhpur style trouser for a shaped hip. Highlights were the dresses, Lamé for evening and embellished metal threaded jacquard for cocktail hour.